The New Continental
Many of you will have travelled through Preston on a train at some time and, for most, it's not a particularly interesting journey. However, if the weather's good, the last moments of the journey, travelling over the River Ribble and looking over into the city's Avenham Park, can provide a glimmer of glamour before you trundle into the decrepit train station.
A decade ago, there was a pub in Preston that utilised these views wonderfully. Situated at the base of the bridge over which the trains roll, The Continental was the perfect place to spend a summer's evening, before the clientele and the standards of food and drink drove even the hardiest fans away.
Now The Continental has been reborn, thanks to an ambitious revamp from a young couple, Ruth Heritage and Jeremy Rowlands. They have also attracted some impressive collaborators - Stephen Kerfoot from the Running Pump in Catforth is the head chef, while ex-Marble Brewery manager Warren MacCoubrey is in charge of the cask ales.
MacCoubrey in particular is doing a good job. It was genuinely difficult to find a spot at the bar, but when we did, we were greeted by Marble's own 1334 (£2.40), one of the Manchester brewery's lighter, more delicate drinks, but it was surpassed by something from further afield. Whim Ale (£2) from Buxton was a real find, a light citrusy beer perfect for summer supping.
The money spent by Heritage and Rowlands on the decor also catches the eye. The old pub is still visible underneath, but there's some subtle tiling and lighting, plus a complete renovation of the large conservatory, which brightens the place up considerably. Taking a table in the conservatory near the large beer garden during the post-work bustle of a Friday evening, it was almost like being back at the Continental of yore.
When the food arrived however, it became clear that rather than returning the pub to its former glories, Kerfoot had surpassed them in the kitchen. A savoury fresh herb-baked cheesecake (£4.50) was testament to the risks being taken; nothing unusual in a celebrated city kitchen, here in a pub it seemed gloriously out of step. Bursting with tangy Lancashire cheese flavour that went well with the red onion relish, it was a clear statement of intent.
So, too was the warm ham hock salad (£5.50), basically a dish of Bury black pudding, Lancashire cheese and meaty strips of ham on a bed of rocket. It ticked all the boxes for those looking for locally sourced grub, but more importantly, it also impressed those around the table for whom salad is a dirty word.
Whether red snapper served with stir-fried vegetables (£9.50) is native to Lancashire is up for debate, but any concerns over food miles were forgotten after the first mouthful. A huge piece of fish offered a clean, meaty taste - it actually would have been better served on its own or with plain veg, as the sweet chilli sauce tasted a bit too close to the type you find on a supermarket shelf.
There were no such worries with the other main, a pan-fried French cut of chicken (£9.50) stuffed with black pudding and that Lancashire cheese again. A seemingly innocuous cheese, it can be inexplicably offensive to some, but having been brought up on the stuff, I cannot think of a dish that wouldn't be improved by it. It certainly added a lovely creamy counterpoint to the rough texture of the black pudding here, served on a hefty bed of mash.
To go with the mains, we decided to forgo the ales in order to examine the wine list. A 2006 bottle of Orballo Albarino Rias Baixas (£16.95) was a good choice, aided by a casual recommendation from the jovial waiting staff. Light and only slightly dry, it went well with a hearty meal, but might not be as successful sampled alone.
Both our mains were chosen from the extensive specials list, as were the desserts, scribbled down by the chef and narrated to us by the waiter (once he'd deciphered the handwriting). Opting for a chocolate fudge brownie and vanilla crème brûlée (both £4.50), the massive portions that arrived at our table suggested we had either chosen well, or that the puddings are designed to finish off any appetites still left standing. They may have lacked the surprising touches found elsewhere, but both desserts made up for it with sheer sweet delight.
It seems that Heritage and Rowlands have done an impressive job, hauling the Continental back on to its feet and adding some exciting flourishes. Solid choices in the kitchen and behind the bar have obviously helped, but there's an ambition to the whole project (plans are afoot for a performance space to be opened) that is obviously their own. Next time you're delayed at that train station, you know where to head.
South Meadow Lane, Preston. Food served Mon to Thu noon to 2.30pm and 5pm to 8.30pm; Fri noon to 2.30pm and 5pm to 9pm; Sat noon to 9pm; Sun noon to 8.30pm. Tel: 0177 249 9425. www.newcontinental.net
see it here:
http://www.metro.co.uk/metrolife/article.html?in_article_id=300626&in_page_id=231
Really is a team effort that's got it that review - good on everyone!
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